10 Mar designing women
In a predominantly male-dominated field, female jewelry designers have made great strides, especially since the suffragette movement and the advent of World War II.
During our 18 years in the jewelry world, we have featured work from our favorites: Susan Belperron, Juliette Moutard (both for the house of Boivin), Line Vautrin, Marianne Ostier, Coco Chanel, Angela Cummings, Paloma Picasso, Elsa Perretti, Marina B, Marilyn Cooperman, Elizabeth Gage, Michelle Ong, and Marguerite Stix.
Here we present six wildly diverse and equally talented designers’ work currently for sale.
|Marguerite Stix (1904-1975)
Stix was Viennese. Sculptor, ceramicist, and jeweler, she is best known for her work with shells. She and her husband collected over 15,000 shells from the Pacific with which they established a rare shell gallery in NYC. Their shell jewelry was retailed at Cartier and worn by such luminaries as Jacqueline Onassis. We have a small, single owner collection of Stix shells for sale, all in pristine condition.
|Elizabeth Gage (1937-present)
Gage is a trained master goldsmith who is best known for her historical references, elaborate craftsmanship, and exquisite stones. Featured in museum exhibitions (including the Victoria and Albert in London) and in private collections such as that of Lauren Bacall, Gage has also written a book called The Unconventional Gage. The Gage earrings we offer are an iconic mix of refined inlay work and ancient intaglios.
Favoring clear, simple, natural forms, Peretti came onto the Jewelry scene in a big way in the 1970’s. Halston introduced her to Walter Hoving in 1974 and, from that time on, she designed exclusively for Tiffany. Hobnobbing with Andy Warhol, Bianca Jagger, Liza Menelli, and Helmut Newton, Peretti was able to capture the free spirited mood of that Studio 54 time. Here we present her “wave” ring in 18k gold.
|Marianne Ostier (1902-1976)
Ostier was married to a third generation Austrian jeweler. They emigrated to the U.S. in 1938 and set up Ostier Inc. in 1941, introducing three dimensional jewelry among other innovations. Ostier’s book “Jewels and the Woman” was an outspoken treatise on the proper way to wear jewelry. Her work with diamonds was perhaps her best, always featuring a light open work feel. The “leaf” pin we offer ca. 1950 is iconic Ostier.
|Angela Cummings (1944-present)
Cummings revels in the natural world and the play of light. She uses opaque fine gemstones with iridescent mother of pearl and inlay to create a Trompe L’oeil effect. She trained with Donald Claflin at Tiffany, and left in 1984 to gain more artistic freedom. These “jaguar” earrings are inspired by the wild animal and are a great example of her mastery of the art of mosaic and inlay.
|Susan Belperron (1900-1983)
Always quoted as saying “my style is my signature,” Belperron rarely signed her work. Hers was a style that went against the jewelry of her time. Original, curvaceous, using unusual materials (rock crystal, wood, steel, chalcedony), Belperron understood the link between fashion and jewelry. Her work was favored by Hollywood stars, the aristocracy, the Duchess of Windsor. These “coquillage” earrings are featured in the book on Belperron by Ward Landrigan on page 210 and were manufactured by the workshop Darde et fils in the late fifties. They come with a certificate of authenticity.
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