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Van Cleef “Angel Hair” bracelet. Georges Lenfant made this “Cheveux D’Ange” design for Van Cleef and Arpels in the fifties, which remains a favorite sexy, sinuous design. Featuring eighteen carat gold filaments floating off a solid gold segment, the bracelet feels like silk and has a luxurious fabric-like feel. Signed, numbered and fabulously iconic.
Our dfk personal assistant is here to assist with everything from product recommendations to delivery details and service questions. Please don’t hesitate to reach out. Monday – Friday 10:00am – 6:00pm EST
Founded in 1906 by Alfred Van Cleef and his brothers-in-law Charles and Julien Arpels on the Place Vendome in Paris, Van Cleef & Arpels is one of the world’s most exquisite jewelers. The immediate success of the House prompted the founders to expand to important seaside resorts in France as well as abroad. New York City became the first location in the United States for Van Cleef & Arpels in 1939 and the House has since opened boutiques in five more U.S. cities. Van Cleef & Arpels is renowned for its innovative designs and techniques such as the Mysterious Setting, in which the prongs are hidden underneath the gemstone. The designs include only the highest quality gemstones and pieces are often interchangeable – brooches can become pendants or hairclips, earrings detachable drops and bracelets can be linked together to create necklaces. Van Cleef & Arpels is currently part of the Richemont group.
Georges Lenfant could be described as one of the unsung heroes of 20th Century French jewelry. A hugely skilled designer and manufacturer, he was a Cartier workmaster and made jewelry for many of the top Parisian houses of the Place Vendome and rue de la Paix.
Born into the trade, Georges Lenfant served various apprenticeships and studied jewelry both in Paris and abroad before returning home and setting up his own business at the beginning of the 20th Century. His workshop was situated at 47 rue des Petits-Champs which was just a short walk from the glamour of the Place Vendôme and rue de la Paix where his famous clients had their ateliers. He is listed in a 1903 edition of the ‘Revue de la Bijouterie, Joaillerie, Orfèvrerie’ indicating that he was already established by this date, however, he didn’t register his distinctive makers mark until 1909. As his success and reputation grew, it is possible that he took the decision to mark his pieces so that, although they would ultimately be sold by the likes of Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Mellerio dits Meller, they would also carry his mark and be identifiable as having originated in his workshop.
Between them, his craftsmen created a huge variety of jewels for a wide clientele; from elegant diamond set rings, bold gem-set bracelets and finely worked gold jewels, the Lenfant workshop produced some of the most beautiful jewelry of the period. Georges was joined in the business in 1915 by his son Jacques who was only 11 at the time but who would go on to carry his fathers legacy late into the century.
Lenfant had been creating jewelry for Sandoz for many years when, in 1927, Gustave-Roger Sandoz decided to sell the business to his friend and collaborator. His son Gérard remained as artistic director for the next 11 years and together they created some of the most striking and original Art Moderne pieces which were characterized by bold lines, contrasting shapes and strong color combinations. Some years later, in the aftermath of World War II, Lenfant took over another workshop, that of Verger Frères which had been founded in 1872 and is best known for its production of fabulous Art Deco jewelry and objet.
The 1950’s saw collaborations with Vacheron Constantin (who had worked closely with the Verger workshop for many years) to make watches for Hermes as well as the continuation of long-standing partnerships with jewelers such as Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. During the 1960’s and 70’s the Lenfant workshop produced many beautiful gold chain bracelets and necklaces which is perhaps what they are best known for today. Jacques Lenfant was fascinated by the art of the goldsmith and the myriad different patterns, shapes, and textures that could be used to create a seemingly infinite array of chains. Finely woven textures, a combination of different color golds and varying circular and twist motifs are all typical of Lenfant pieces, sometimes accented with a sprinkling of diamonds and always finely made, they remain highly desirable and wearable today.